Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Tuamutos - Day 1, May 26, 2014

We set sail this morning.  It was quite a calm bay we were in; we raised the main with a single reef since the winds were reported to be 15-20 knots.  When we rounded the corner, there were some waves and whitecaps.  We got bounced around a fair amount as we departed.  I threw all the laundry down and tried to get everything stabilized for a lot of wind.  Quite different from our calm bay!

We were moving nicely, sometimes 8-10 knots, but it was a bit bouncy.  All the kids were in lifejackets due to the bigger seas.   We had 4 bundles of bananas hanging in the cockpit that were really bouncing around with the ripe bananas flying everywhere.  I gathered them up and will make bread with them later, when it's smoother.

The kids had a blast on deck with the splashes and waves coming up.  After awhile, it smoothed out and we took the reef out of our sail.   We are moving nicely on our roughly 500-mile/3-day journey.

We are towing the hydro-generator, making great power.  We ran the fridge because we had so much power from the solar, wind and air.  That was nice.  Courage was saying that maybe he wouldn't get a hydro-generator again because you can only use it occasionally.  I love when we do use it what we get from it.  And it works at night when the solar doesn't.  And we got it used, $100, so I'm happy to try with the power we've gotten from it and it continues to produce.

I'm still happy with our provisioning.  We've gotten extra pamplemousse to share/trade in the Tuamotus.  We got 4 bundles of bananas since there were not a lot of durable fruit options.  We tried to get some super green ones, but my first bunches were ripening, so we got another.  Now we are flush with ripe bananas!!  Eating 2-3 per day per person at least.  But we have 2 green bundles still.  

In the Tuamutos, they are made from reefs, not tall volcanic mountains.  In the Marquesas, the tall mountains condense the clouds and cause the local rain.  You can almost pick out each island when you're out at sea by looking at bundles of clouds.  There isn't as much rainfall as I can tell in the Tuamutos, 
I'm not sure what their source of freshwater is.   So, I think there's also less growth of gardens and fresh stuff.  We shall see.  But, the carrots, potatoes and onions we have been buying are shipped in from New Zealand.  Since we are getting closer to NZ, I would imagine those items would still be available at similar prices, right??  We have offered a couple of friends without water makers that we can give them fresh water if needed.  So far, they have been OK with shore water, lots of public taps in the Marquesas, but they said maybe in the Tuamutos.

Nobody knows what to expect next, but I'm still hearing from people that they wish they had brought more, they were told prices were high, but wish someone told them how high, etc.

Maybe I'll compile a list of French Polynesian prices one day.  Subsidized things (so I'm willing to buy them) include an average smallish tub of margarine for $3., 1 liter irradiated milk for $1.25, and baguette $0.80.  Other things I remember 1 kg. brown rice (only seen once) was $2.50, 1 kg carrots $2.50, 4 small apples for $5., 12 ounce can fruit $3.- $4., 4 slices of 'turkey' $4.20, small pack bacon $9., 4 chicken franks $2.00, $1.15 for a single grapefruit (huge) or a mango.  $3.50 for a head of cabbage.  Cake mix is $6.  Medium box of pancake mix was $7.  The Russian cruising woman told me she found oats and they were $12/kg.  We were lucky we bought carrots fresh in Oa Pou because there weren't any in Nuka Hiva.  Other cruisers were desperate for some eggs, walked to all 3 stores in town and couldn't find any.  They were told maybe after 9 am, but waited and returned, and nothing.  Maybe tomorrow?  Now there are chickens and roosters around in town, so it's a bit confusing.  At $8 per 12 pack, I'd be raising and selling eggs!!!  Even under the table if need be.  Our understanding is that there is a 100% tax on imported items.  I'm not sure if/why they can't sell local eggs at a reasonable price.  But with this strange market values of everything, which I believe is based on a tax system, I can see why people are horse trading and would rather have a rope for pamplemousse, which is a win-win deal, than sell them in a store that reports them as a profit and everyone jacks up prices.  We'd have paid almost $15 for the pamplemousse and I think they'd have paid that or more for the rope.

So, I'm enjoying meeting and trying to understand what drives cultures.  The people are very friendly and generous and seem quite happy.  Looking forward to the Tuamutos . . .

We anticipate arrival on Intrepid's birthday, May 29th!  He's pretty excited and counting down.

Shannon

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