Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Daniel's Bay

We left Nuka Hiva's main bay (a long word starting with an H) and headed around the corner to Daniel's bay.  How it got the easy English name, I'm not sure.  Three boats did that jump, so Cassidy went on a mono-hull, Carpe Diem, for a different experience.  We took 2 of Carpe Diem's kids in exchange so the kids could play.  We motored, as did the other catamaran, but Carpe Diem sailed.  It was a little choppy, but good.  We saw dolphins twice during the passage.  Little Valiant was on the pulpit watching dolphins, then watching the waves hit the rocky shore, then he fell asleep up there.  It was super cute.  Poor little guy was wiped out!

The bay was gorgeous, again, enclosed in these steep volcanic walls with lush green vegetation on them.  As soon as we rounded the corner, the seas calmed from whitecaps to absolutely still.  This looks like a good place to anchor and sleep. Also a nice place to swim, we didn't swim in the first bay.  The fishermen throw all their fish parts into the murky water and sharks come from nowhere to fight for it.  Great show, not great swimming.  There were about 5 boats there when we arrived, including one with an 8-year-old girl that we've met before.  When we arrived, we sent the girls to shore with the kayak.  Innocence, 5 years old, was in charge.  Her passengers were Vitality 4 and Sadie from Carpe Diem, 4 also.  Courage towed them close to shore, and then they rowed in, landed it, and pulled it up and tied it off.  They had a great time on shore!!  

That evening we had a potluck type dinner, on our boat of course.  They were suggesting we meet onshore, but really, it's easier to set and eat and not get sandy on our boat, so we offered and they took us up on it.  We had over 5 from Carpe Diem and 3 from Paje for a fun and enjoyable dinner party.  Boaters are very easy going, don't require a seat at the table, bring their own plates and utensils, etc.  It's very easy to host.  We do our best to seat adults at the table, provide any needed cups, drinks, food, etc., but they are so familiar with the limitations of space and dishware on a boat that they are adaptable to the conditions provided.

The next morning all 3 boats went to hike a waterfall.  We had to kayak and dinghy over to the shore around a rocky corner.  There were breaking waves going in to the beach.  It was less just up against the rocks because there was a freshwater river coming out, so we went in that direction.  We all made it through successfully, and then pulled our vehicles up very high for high tide since it was very flat, so a little tide could go a long way!  The hike was gorgeous, through a town, then up through a forest, across the river (in it, not a bridge or anything fancy), then up to the waterfall.  It is the third highest in the world from what I hear.  Apparently the trail becomes difficult and obscure, but you can hike to the base of the falls and swim.  We made it to where you can see the falls, and then turned around.  We had many little people with us who were done hiking.  We went back to the river crossing, did some swimming in the pretty crisp cool water, had a snack and a rest, saw a couple of eels, then carried on back to town refreshed and happy.  Mosquito bitten from the fresh water area, but that was the only bad part.  Walking through the town is like walking through a buffet!!  They were growing so many fruits there!  Courage found a house with a person in it and worked out a trade of some rope for about 10 pamplemousse (grapefruit).  I saw some mango trees, but she said no mangos and no one was home at the mango houses.  I would have loved some mangos too.

We went back to our boat and there were lots of new boats that had come in.  There were about 16 boats in the harbor now, 4 of them were kid boats.  We invited some of the kids over to play.  There was total chaos, but it was fun!  Cassidy had a 14 and 8 year old doing nails and listening to music.  Intrepid and Integrity had 7-year-old and 9-year-old boys over.  The girls had a 3-year-old over.  I got to chat with Amber, the mom on Rockstar, a new kid boat to us with a mutual friend they met in Costa Rica.

Many of the boats in this harbor are ready to jump to the Tuamutos and are waiting for a weather window.  We saw one leaving during dinner in the evening.  They are heading to the same place we are, so we told them save us a spot, we are about 12 hours behind them.  They asked for a photo we have from the big group potluck in Tahuata, so we told them we'd bring it (they were already under sail)!

In the morning, we made an early shore run to the beach with the freshwater stream and waves.  Rockstar came to join us.  Coming through the waves, they took a big wave over the back of their dinghy.  But they made it.  The kids played for hours, saw a few more eels, Intrepid pet one, they swam in the fresh water river, and they built a fort in the rocks with branches, and dug in the sand.  They could have played longer, but it was time for us to get underway.  We headed home to get ready for our passage to the Tuamutos.  Courage had lined up a house-call for me to go check out a 10 month old with a red, goopy eye.  I went and checked her out.  We'd met them in Tahuata also swimming with the mantas.  I'd taken a few pictures of him diving with the mantas, but we didn't really see them or chat with them since then.  I mentioned it and he was super excited.  They don't have an underwater camera, so those pictures are rare.  So he came over and we copied them to a drive for him.  It's nice when these little gifts mean so much to people.

Then we headed out.  Goodbye Marquesas, here come the Tuamutos!

Shannon

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