Reef !!

It is true; we have hit a coral reef. Certainly not something to be proud of, but here is the story of how it happened.

We were in the picture perfect lagoon of Tuao. We had visited bird and coconut crab island, where the trees are filled with hundreds of bird nests, and the sky is a canopy of winged terns singing their songs to their little chicks. The baby boobies are not scared of people and just peck at any appendage that gets too close to them.

There is a group of about 9 people that inhabit the atoll. They are a wonderful gracious people who when we stopped by to say hello opened coconuts for everyone to drink, and tried to give us three of their lobsters, and some of their coconut crabs. We talked them down to one coconut crab, and one lobster, and of course they forced us to take the biggest one.

We brought them in Pamplemousse, honey, and some baguettes. We also offered for them to come out for dinner the following evening. They accepted graciously. The next morning they arrived at the boat, and dove down and got us a blue parrotfish. And later on they brought us a Jack. Dinner worked out great with fish, lots of rice, and veggies. Dessert was burnt brownies, and home made cinnamon rolls. And topped off with a movie in French.

The following day they had us over for lunch, with lots of lobster, coconut crab, rice, and fish prepared four different ways. Incredible!!

So as we were leaving it was about 2pm to 3pm. The sun was creating quite a glare off our port bow, but we appeared to be able to see well enough to spot any boomies. Cassidy was up the mast, I was on the engine controls, and we were talking about a large boomie that I could see on the chart plotter but was not visible by eye. Suddenly a grinding/crunching/shuddering sound and vibration electrified everyone.  It went on for a second or two and then stopped, we were only going about 4.5 knots, and I popped the motor into idle. Whew! That wasn't so bad!!! Then CRUNCH/BUMP!!! The whole back of the boat lifted up with a bone crunching, wood shattering, and yes heart-breaking sound. I looked in the water behind/under us, and there was the beautiful boomie just under the surface, and pieces of our home littering the surface. Absolutely devastating!

There was no panic, though I did look up at Cassidy in the mast, and say "Cass!" As though pleading for her to make it not happen. But she was quite sad about it also, and we both should have been taking watching more seriously.

We were free of the boomie and the wind was pushing us toward the charted reef. I started the other motor and started steering us away, when I realized that we needed to do a quick assessment. We dropped the anchor, and Shannon and I got our masks and dove in the see if we were sinking.  There was this 20' long deep scrape along the inside of the hull, but not all the way through the fiberglass.  Next I went to the rudder, it was bent back at about 30 degrees, and the bottom of it as splayed open with the stainless shaft and ribs bent sticking out the bottom, and the encasing fiberglass and foam flopping in the water. The rear edge of the rudder had broken through the hull making a 1' foot by 4" inch hole through the hull. Upon close examination the hole was found to be in the rudder "groove", and the water would only flood that portion of the boat. Very fortunate!

The propeller is not looking good, with one blade skewed terribly.  I disconnected the ruined rudder from the steering arm, and with our one rudder and one functioning motor limped off to our anchorage.

Today we went and dove on the boomie, it was extremely difficult to see, from the surface, even when almost on top of it. It is a jagged spire about 20' by 10' rising almost vertically from the 40' bottom. We apparently straddled the boomie between the two hulls, we just nicked one edge of the boomie with the hull and then the rudder and prop.

On the bright side though we are now heading for another area where we should be able to send this report to you. Also we just landed a 6' blue marlin? Well it is a 6' long bluish fish with no bill. Not sure what it is, but we are pretty sure that it is good to eat!!!

We are all doing great, and the boat is doing as well as can be expected!!!

Courage

The island of Tuao

This island has been excellent.  We've had more continuous adventures here.  We came into the main lagoon rather than the false pass where most boats go.  We were going to stop near the pass entrance where we've heard about great diving, but instead, we continued on to the corner where we'd be nicely protected from the winds.  There were a few houses onshore, so we were a bit worried about disturbing them vs. having a great place to hang out.  They had some buoys out front, so we thought maybe they had a small pearl farm that we had hoped to see also.  We went to shore over to the side where there was nobody and the kids LOVED it.  There was a swing, tons of hermit crabs, caught a few lizards, collected lots of nice shells, and explored a lot.  The kids asked to not be brought home until dinner was served on their plates.  On our way out to make dinner, Courage and I stopped by the houses to find out more about the pearl farm.  Turns out the buoys mark a return path free from coral.  They were very friendly, very!, as is everyone here.  It's really impressive.  They showed us 7 lobsters they had in a cage under the water.  We asked if there were coconut crabs on this island, they went and got us a couple that they'd caught for dinner.  They were amazing!  They said they have no more on their island "because my cousin ate them all" but neighboring islands have them.  They gifted us a lobster and a coconut crab for dinner, and we went on our way.  The lobster was great; the crab was too special to eat.  We saved it for the kids to see, and then plan on setting it free.  It's slightly dangerous, it's pincher claw can cut through a coconut, it sure could do some damage to little fingers, so we had him in a box with a lid.  We returned to shore, gave them some baguettes, honey, and pamplemousse.

The following day, we toured their house area and they showed us how they do their copra (dried coconuts they sell for oil).  There was a cousin who spoke some English, so I loved practicing French while he practiced English and taught us things about how they live.  They sell the copra for $1 Euro per kilo.  When they have 5 tons, a ship comes from Tahiti and picks it up.  It brings supplies, but in bulk, coffee, rice, petrol (200L) for about $500.  That evening we had them over for dinner.  Many had never been to a boat before.  They've seen them, but not visited.  They caught us a parrotfish and a jack for dinner along with a couple other fish that they prepared and brought.  We had a great dinner and visit, then watched a movie in French for them.  They loved it.  They don't have electricity, so any TV is a treat.  They have a generator, which they run rarely to charge a cell phone since the family is split between here and Fakarava (another atoll about 20 miles away). They have no reception here though since it's not really populated, so they have to climb to the top of a coconut tree to get a signal.  Scary in the wind they say.

They told us about their school system.  From ages 5-10 they attend school at the nearby island of Fakarava.  Here, this family is able to stay with some family in their house.  It sounds like typically the mothers are staying in Fakarava with the kids while the men are working copra in Tuao.  When the children become 11, they go to Rangiroa for school until they are 15. During this time, the children do not have local family, so they sleep and eat all their meals at the school.  The family tries to send them money for basic things like clothes or phone calls or whatever.  After 3 months, the richer families are able to fly the kids home for 2 weeks.  Those that cannot afford airfare don't see their children for 6 months at a time.  After Rangiroa, the children go to Tahiti for school.  School is taught in French, but otherwise they speak an islander language.  There is a Tuamuto language as well as one understandable throughout French Polynesia.

They invited us to lunch the following day to return the hospitality.  They made lobster, crab, fish and rice.  It was delicious! We brought popcorn.  One of the guys was eating popcorn, impressed with the butter salt, and said that he always gets lobster, he's eating popcorn because that's something he never gets. For breakfast they also eat fish and rice, and for dinner.

They gave me some gorgeous shells that they'd collected from the surrounding areas.  We gave them some children's clothing for their children who should be returning from school in about a week.  They also had a lemon tree, which no longer produces lemons, so we gave them lemon juice we had, - - and a machete for doing their copra.  Hopefully these gifts to them are useful.  They are wonderful, happy, simple living people.  They buy rice and a few condiments, but otherwise live off the land - fish, lobster, and crabs with very few vegetables.  They have one breadfruit tree, which was picked clean.  The land is made of coral infiltrated by salt water, so they can't grow most things in it.  They work hard on their copra, and sell shells, lobsters and fish when the big ship comes.  They get about $17 for lobster, $12 for 2 parrotfish, and $15 for a jack.  Fishing sounds more lucrative than the copra, but both together sounds pretty productive.  They have no house or land payments, no electricity, and no car payments, live on collected rainwater, no investment for their work (coconuts and fish are plentiful on the island).  So their money goes to clothes (1-2 outfits a piece it seems), food (rice, condiments, etc.), petrol, propane, beer (when in Fakarava celebrating the sell of their copra), etc.  In general, few luxuries, few expenses, few needs, and very generous/happy people.  It is very fun and interesting to have this opportunity to meet the locals and see how they are living.   They have a gorgeous, relaxing setting with plentiful food and few needs.  It's a great set up.  I asked one of the women if she prefers here or Fakarava (small town) and she definitely prefers here.  "No stress."

Shannon

In the Fakarava Reef and Kauehi

Our boat in ?? mid-Fakarava. Our friend was up her mast taking photos of us while Cassidy was up our mast getting photos of them and their boat. We're just on deck, Cassidy is the spot on the top of the mast!

Day 1 of homeschool on Kauehi. The kids are going to shore to check it out.

The boys at our favorite beach in South Fakarava. Super soft sand, tons of reef sharks, a huge Napoleon fish (famous in these parts apparently) who loves to eat baguette, small dock, tons of shallow coral and reef fish. Perfect place for kids to swim, dig, snorkel, and fish watch in the clear water. Our boat is anchored in the background across the bay.

Homeschool snorkeling.

Bonfire on the beach with the local cruisers in South Fakarava. We stayed until well after dark and dinghy'd home by moonlight through the reefs. Great night!

Goodnight, back to the boat. Leaving in the morning for another remote island with slim chance of internet. Going to organize blog/pictures (one day very soon) and have them ready next time we hit an internet port. 

Got fresh fruits/veggies here today, so looking good!!

Caesar salad and veggie lasagne for dinner was a TREAT! Haven't had lettuce in a long time! Apples for dessert since they were such a welcome treat!

Off to Tuao, then who knows. . .

Somewhere in French Polynesia

Welcome to Kauehi. We entered with squall after squall hitting us, tons of rainbows since it was sunny and rainy. Was a great fresh water wash off after all the salty waves we'd taken onto the deck and roof even.

Courage trouble shooting one of the many sail repairs for our mainsail during the crossing from the Marquesas to the Tuamotus. Thank goodness he could always come up with one more plan . . .

Vitality with the shark. Love, love, love her bobbing at the surface with her water wings above a shark.

Vitality and I with sharks.

Cassidy on her first SCUBA dive in the ocean. She's finally graduated from John Maruhn's pool.

Photos from the Tuamotu Archipelago

Taken by our friends on Alba just after our arrival. Thanks guys!!! They then came over wondering where we'd hidden the pot of gold!!

South Fakarava, the views we suffer. Note the crystal clear water so you can see all the coral heads under water. Makes for pretty nice diving. Not as ideal for sailing, but great for diving.

Innocence swimming with sharks.

Our final limping day with 7-8 cars out of our mailsail track and the main reefed and a jury rigged halyard holding it up. Hoping to get in before dusk/dark on the pass when you can no longer make out the coral reefs you are passing through. We made it just fine, but just at dusk, so with little time to spare. Main has been "fixed" since then and we're up and running again!!

The world famous Napoleon fish.

Marine Radio Broken

It is confirmed that our marine radio is broken.  Now we are going to see just how good this West Marine warranty really is!!

Another fantastic day, and we had a great volleyball game with our friends from Paje on the nearby sand bar.

The weather is interesting down here. We get a couple of squalls every day, with a touch of rain, and a few heavy gusts. There is no lightening though, which is good for the electronics.

As you might imagine there are no stores where we are, but there are certain places where supply ships come every once in a while.  On the 12th the next supply ship is scheduled to arrive at the north end of this atoll.  We are hoping to be there to get some fresh fruits and vegetables.

Courage

Snorkeling

We are at another gorgeous spot!!  GREAT snorkeling/diving in the south pass of the island the last few days - - Tons of reef sharks.  Got nice photos!  Just came to a gorgeous island with white sandy beaches and crystal clear water (again) for a 9-year-old birthday party today.  Will work our way north to get some fresh fruits/veggies (ship comes in on Thursdays).  Maybe a nice beach for kite surfing up the way a bit, 2 boats here with gear for it.  However, there are lots of great things to do.  Likely set up our volleyball net tomorrow, 7-8 kid-boats here for the party, so kids everywhere, even teenagers!!

All is well.  Sending SailMail through a friend's system while we troubleshoot our system, so we are slow to respond.  Hoping to organize videos, pictures, blogs, for sending with Cassidy when she comes home and/or uploading when we get Internet, but so many other things going on, hard to get it all done.

Shannon

Sharks

The pass at the south end of Fakarava is quite well known around these parts as one of the best dives.  The current flow is perfect for just drifting along and looking down into the crystal clear water. The coral is very healthy, colorful, and composed of many different types. Just looking at the coral is enough to entertain me for hours, but the coral is laced with all types of fish of every imaginable type, and then just to add a little excitement there are sharks everywhere. Most of the sharks are in the 4 to 5 foot range, with the larger ones just over 6 feet. Most people will claim that they saw around 100 sharks in the larger 'schools'. I would say it is closer to 50 sharks but it feels like 100.  The way we do it is to take the dingy way up current, jump into the water, and hold onto the painter of the dingy. The water is so clear that you feel like you are flying effortlessly over the coral, fish, and sharks. What a wonderful way to start the day.

There is also this little lagoon behind the reef, with a white sand bottom. The children love to swim/play here. There are all these tropical fish that love to check the children out, and these gigantic Napoleon fish.  And of course there are sharks just swimming around all casual like.

We are really enjoying this wonderful time out here!!

Courage

SailMail Broken

Our SailMail (radio frequency mail that only sends and receives text) is broken.  We are troubleshooting and hope to have it operational again soon.

But all is well here.  We are having a good time.  The coral is amazing!  We are interacting with several other boats coming and going along our path.  

I will continue to write summaries of our travels and include photos.  Then when we get to a port with Internet I will post them.

This message was sent via satellite phone borrowed from a boat we were visiting for dinner.  In the meantime, you can track our position on the Delorme Map.

So, until later . . . 

Shannon

Intrepid's Birthday -

We had many great celebrations for Intrepid's 9th birthday, which was May 29th.  We were underway much of the day, so we made him burritos from our "canned meat" stash, then brownies with marshmallows on it.  I didn't have presents wrapped and ready or activities of any kind, so we decided to do the official birthday the next day.

So, on the 30th, we celebrated for him with a shore day, iPad video games at quiet time, his favorite baked beans for dinner.  Then he opened presents and cards from the grandparents that we keep onboard for their birthdays.  He had a great day!  We had super ripe bananas, so Courage asked for banana bread.  I was about to make Intrepid a cake.  So Intrepid decided that it was OK to have a birthday again the following day with cake and banana bread tonight.

On the 31st, 3 kid boats arrived!!  Good timing!  We knew all of them from prior and their kids are our kid's age.  So we invited them all to cake and a party!!  We had a lasagna dinner (another Intrepid favorite), then eggless birthday cake with green frosting.  We had over 5 more kids.  They all ran, blew glow-in-the-dark bubbles, girls dressed up like princesses, and generally had a great time!  He had a great birthday party finally and all was well.  3 days of celebrating and he was feeling special!!

Shannon